Beyond The City

To move beyond the city sometimes you must start in the heart of the city. On my second trip to Paris, my goal was to spend time outside of the city, to experience parts of the city I missed on my last visit, and to return to a few places that have stayed with me over the years.

From the six floor of an apartment in the Latin Quarter, I could hear the sounds of the city wondering who lived beyond the wooden shutters across from me. What a treat staying in a Parisian apartment and living like a local. I began each day of this memorable visit from this vantage point, taking in the morning sounds and ending each evening watching the night sky from the Juliet balconies. The night air was crisp and the city sounds of Paris, similar yet different than other cities I've visited. You felt the energy and a special pulse.

In four short days I walked the busy streets, dined in local cafes, and engaged in importune conversations with locals. I experienced two incredible day trips, Monet’s Garden in Giverny, walked in the footsteps of Van Gogh in the small village of Auvers-Sur-Oise, and I was educated on the intricacies and the science of champagne in Epernay.

In the City - Day One

After picking up the very much required museum pass, I spent a few hours in the Louvre to visit the Vermeer exhibit and of course visit the power and strength of the Wings of Victory. I walked through the Tuileries to the Musee de l’Orangerie to see Monet's Water Lilies and viewed the cross-cultural sharing from Tokyo to Paris courtesy of the Bridgestone Museum: Picasso, Brancusi, Monet, and Klee. The permanent collection in the Museum also included works by Matisse, Marie Laurencin, Andre Derain, and Henri Rousseau.

After a day of art immersion, I made my way to The Ritz for tea. There are not enough words to express the pure pleasure and elegance of tea in Salon Proust: champagne, a madeline soaked in cream, jasmine tea, and the most delectable pastries. Let’s not forget the impeccable service.

Brancusi Kiss (Musee de l’Orangerie)

Day Two

I had an ambitious plan for my second full day in the city. I walked from the Latin Quarter to Les Invalides to Le Marais and back to the Latin Quarter. In the early morning, I passed Parisians on their way to work. The streets were virtually empty and famous cafes like Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore in St. Germain des Pres only had a few patrons enjoying morning café and croissant. My mission to visit three museums: Rodin, D ‘Orsay, and Picasso. Was I successful? The line was too long at the D 'Orsay but Rodin and Picasso were glorious. Two out of three isn’t bad.

I made it to the Musee Rodin soon after it first opened. On the 100th anniversary of Rodin’s death, the museum featured works never before displayed in the transformed Hotel Biron. A group of school children learned about art, their curiosity apparent as they animatedly asked questions.

It is a short walk from the Musee Rodin to Le Eiffel. Built for the World’s Fair and a forever symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower is now blocked with metal fences. She is still strong and majestic. You can still go to the top, but the open stretch of grass is now off limits. A changing world has impacted this gift.

Paris is a walkable city. You can walk from the Eiffel Tower to Norte Dame in the same day. I did just that. I walked past the Seine with its murky water, inviting you to take a boat ride. I saw tourists peering from a double-decker touring bus. I thought they were missing out on the best way to explore the city on foot. I followed the sidewalk next to the Seine from Les Invalides to the Le Marais.

In the Marais at the Musee Picasso, Olga, Picasso’s first wife stares back at me with haunted eyes. Paul, Picasso’s first son resembles his father, with matching glares. Picasso always takes me on a journey in skill, experimentation, from intricate sketches to wall-sized abstraction. Before leaving the Marais I made a quick stop at Jacqus Genin for chocolate gifts, the boxes just as much a gift as the chocolate.

Musee Picasso Paris

Through a Window I See (Musee Rodin)

Beyond The City - Giverny and Auvers-Sur-Oise

Sometimes you receive a gift. A gift of a bright sky, spring clouds, and the scent of fresh flowers. As one of our traveling companions said 'an artist sky'. Sometimes you have an opportunity to walk in the footsteps of artists, allowing you to understand what inspired them and maybe be inspired. Only pictures are required.

Monet’s Gardens in Giverny

In the Footsteps of Van Gogh

An Education in Champagne

Three tour guides and two tourists set out from the Le Bastille to the Champagne region. We visited vines perched on a hillside. Spent time at a smaller winery run by two brothers. In the cellar we saw their press and watched the sediment being removed from bottles that were ready for corking. Of course we sampled the product, crisp and light and lovely. Next on to the town of Epernay, an afternoon walking the streets of this picturesque village followed by a tour of the grand champagne house of Moët & Chandon.

Champagne is always a good idea